11.04.09
Sant Antoni Barcelona – An Alternative to Las Ramblas
Any one looking for a little authenticity and local knowledge must stray further afield than the touristy stretches along Las Ramblas. On the surface Sant Antoni, ensconced between the Raval, the Eixample and the Poble Sec, appears like little more than a tired, residential community. Young parents watching their kids as they climb on the monkey bars. Dog lovers of all stripes mooching up and down Avinguda Mistral with their canine companions. A good mixture of long time residents and new arrivals, Catalans and various international contingents. The’hora del vermut’ is a Spanish custom neatly woven into the fabric of normal life in Sant Antoni, 2nd nature to most locals and enthusiastically embraced by many who have made Barcelona their adopted home.
Casa Jacinta ( Tamarit, 154 ; 933 172 059 ) is a giant local favourite. Found across from the Sant Antoni market, a low-key sibling of the Boquera on Las Ramblas, it is a popular meeting place, particularly for the weekend market crowd. The bar prides itself on being an expert when it comes to the’vermouth hour.’ purchasers get to choose from vintage vermouths, vermouth on tap, and wines from acclaimed regions like La Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Bierzo. The Spanish have a long-standing love affair with tinned food, but make no mistake – they have zip to do with tuna or corn in a can. A tapa of these fish and seafood delicacies or great Spanish ham are perfect companions to a tumbler of red or white vermouth, served on ice with a piece of orange or green olive.
Luncheon destination. Taking turns at picking up the tab , however , can be extended to any hour of the day, and a great follow-up to Casa Jacinta lies just across the street : Bar Ramn ( Comte Borrell, 81 ; 933 250 283 ; www.barramon.com ). An outstanding spot for great food, good portions, good vermouth, all served with a good dose of rock ‘n roll and jazz. After 2 visits, the waiters remember you and then you are part of the family – a big family, given that Bar Ramn draws trustworthy followers from the area, the town at huge, even people who have long moved away but make it a point to return every time they are in the city. The tapas ( terribly generous portions which make the term’tapas’ a stretch ) are simple, straightforward, hearty fare : patatas bravas ( roasted potatoes with a side of spicy tomato-almond sauce ), pimientos del padrn ( little, green, spicy peppers ), pulpo a la gallega ( Galician-style octopus ), bombas ( deep-fried dumplings full of potato and beef ), cheese platters, giant piles of pan con tomate the way it should be ( bread, crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, topped with excellent olive oil, juicy tomatoes and a touch of salt ).
Casa Jacinta lies just across the street : Bar Ramn ( Comte Borrell, 81 ; 933 250 283 ; www.barramon.com ). An
impressive spot for good food, good portions, good vermouth, all served with a good dose of rock’n'roll and jazz. The tapas ( very generous portions that make the term’tapas’ a stretch ) are easy, no frills, hearty fare : patatas bravas ( roasted potatoes with a side of spicy tomato-almond sauce ), pimientos del padrn ( little, green, spicy peppers ), pulpo a la gallega ( Galician-style octopus ), bombas ( deep-fried dumplings stuffed with potato and beef ), cheese platters, giant piles of pan con tomate the way it should be ( bread, crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, topped with excellent olive oil, juicy tomatoes and a dash of salt ).
A little, family firm with 6 tables and roughly 40 tapas, lead by cook Francesc Gimeno. Bohemic’s reputation has grown continuously and quietly through personal recommendation. The menu is a curious blend of classic tapas and new creations dreamed up by the cook : 15-20 normal tapas – patatas bravas, chipirones ( cuttlefish ), croquettes, etc.- and 15-20 creative tapas asparagus with foie, rabbit cannelloni -, all made from scratch using only the best, freshest ingredients. And rumor has it that their home vermouth has gotten more than some positive reviews.
Lately, Inopia has been handed a run for its place at the top by a unassuming spot 2 blocks down the street : Bohemic ( Carrer Mans, 42 ; 934 240 628 ). A small, family firm with 6 tables and roughly forty tapas, headed by cook Francesc Gimeno. Bohemic’s reputation has grown continuously and quietly through recommendation by friends. The menu is a curious blend of classic tapas and new creations dreamed up by the cook : 15-20 normal tapas – patatas bravas, chipirones ( cuttlefish ), croquettes, etc.- and 15-20 creative tapas asparagus with foie, rabbit cannelloni -, all made from scratch only using the best, freshest ingredients. And rumor has it that their house vermouth has gotten more than some rave reviews.
For those of us who call Sant Antoni home, these are all familiar names and faces. Other Barcelonans are making the trip across the town to discover what all of the excitement is about and discover a corner of the town that hasn’t lost touch with its roots. And if you are visiting from out of town and desire something off the well trodden route, a spot that’s’s still more area than souvenir stand, it could be an excellent idea to search out a little home away from home in Sant Antoni. Nothing causes you to feel more of a local than staying in your own studio ( www.bcninternet.com is a solid bet for quality apartments in Barcelona and round the area ), heading to the corner and ordering a tapa of boquerones al vinagre ( fresh anchovies in vinegar ), some olives and a tall glass of vermouth.
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